Nonetheless we had an incredible adventure. Based on the advice of our host, Ian, we drove there via the northern route. I was warned that the initial distance would be extremely winding, but that the twists and turns would be worth it. They certainly were!
On the left, breathtaking fields of grape vines, and beyond them, steep, tree-covered hills and jagged, craggy cliff faces. To our right, hugging the road’s shoulder, similar sheets of winding, clay-colored rock. Then, after a time, we leveled out and the rock formations to our right were replaced with rows of olive trees, or sometimes cork tree forests.
What beautiful symetry! On one side: miles of vineyards. On another: the trees whose bark is turned into wine bottle corks! And because drinking wine on an empty stomach is unwise, there are, later in our trip, miles after miles of olives -- green and black.
As we got closer to the beaches, traffic became more congested. It was understandable. This was a beautiful Saturday afternoon, and who wouldn’t want to head to some of the best places in France for sun, beaches and the gentle Mediterranean breezes?
Once we arrived, the two highlights were the Saturday Market and the Citadel.
The market there was naturally much large than La Londe’s, and offered a dizzying assortment of clothing, artwork and small household items ... and especially food. Here are two photos of the market. The second shot is of a display of garlic:
When we arrived we took a very brief review of the booths, but then headed to an ancient, shady tavern / restaurant facing the marketplace. There, we had beer and wine while we people-watched. This bar had towering ceilings, and was ornate in an old, not-quite-decrepit way. It oozed charm.
As the photo below conveys, this was a pleasant break from the signtseeing. In fact, it was a highlight.
Later we walked back to a booth selling wood-fired pizzas. We ordered one we could share, and waited 10 minutes for it to come out of the squat, chrome oven. Also, Michele bought ratatouille. She had remembered to bring some spoons in her backback, so we could eat this cold, eggplant-based dish on the steps of a bank, closed for the noon break. Joe and Michele are marvelous cooks, and they have treated us to some extraordinary meals, aided by the villa’s modern and well-equipped kitchen. Nonetheless, we all agreed this welcome meal was one of our best of the vacation so far.
St. Tropez was a key port city at one time. Having a strong navy and well-defended fort was important for survival. The Citadel was an amazing structure, surprisingly well-preserved. It conjured up all sorts of images of the French Foreign Legion movies I’ve seen over the years. Except this wasn’t in a desert. It was at the top of a steep hill overlooking the port. I was told by the villa's "Welcome Book" that the Citadel was the best place in St. Tropez for snapping photos. The snapshots presented here show you why.
Although we have no photos to document this, the Citadel was used to present an extraordinary modern art exhibit. The contrast between the historical and the avant garde made the experience all the more exciting.
The drive back was just as gratifying.
Again, following Ian’s recommendations, we drove south from St. Tropez, and then west, to head back to our villa along the coastline. It was gorgeous, and tomorrow Julie and I plan to retrace this route as far as La Croix for a lunch at a beachside bistro. Here's a sample of our view:
Overall, what was most striking about this excursion is the contrast between the rustic countryside and the sophistication of St. Tropez.
We also got an exciting surprise. Part of our visit involved Julie, Michele and I cooling our heels while Joe went off to investigate docking the sailboat for the winter in this paradise. (The boat is currently in port in Alba, Italy). He came back with unexpected news, considering the posh neighborhood. Wintering here is within their budget!
How exciting to imagine our good friends spending months here! If this were to come to pass, Julie and I would be able to experience this highlight of our vacation well into the cold Milwaukee winter, at least vicariously.
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